What I Am Working On: Split Toning

I spend a fair bit of time thinking about color. While I can’t say that I was considering making this image into a black and white when I shot it, oftentimes original photo files that have quite a pop or contrast of color before they’ve even been edited, make nice black and whites.

The original image is an example of that:

ISO 500 f/18 10mm 1/80sec

I did create a color version of this image, but I was only somewhat satisfied with it. I thought maybe a black and white would work so I made a version with that treatment as well. I liked it but I guess I was still thinking about color. I decided my next step was going to be trying split toning. Because split toning changes the color tones of the image, it is most often used in editing color images. It’s a really powerful tool, and can have some nice applications in black and white as well.

But first here is a screenshot of the image without split toning:

Screenshot without Toning

Luminar AI calls this edit “toning”. Split toning is the way I’ve always seen it referred to in other software, and I think is a more accurate label. What I have done here is made the color tones in the highlights warmer and the shadows cooler, hence the idea of “split”. In the edit below, the highlight slider is moved towards yellow and the shadows toward blue.

With toning:

Screenshot with toning

Final Version:

ISO 500 f/18 10mm 1/80sec

I’ll be honest, I like both the toning edit and the one without it. The one with toning definitely has a warmer feel to it, so I think which you prefer might have a lot to do with how you feel about that particular element. Feel free to leave a comment or question below.

Cheers!

Added to Lens-Arts, From Forgettable to Favourite.

What I Am Working On: Keeping Up With the Kit

What’s in my bag these days:

The bodies: Canon 50D and Canon 80D. A working film camera, it is a Canonete 28, that belonged to my great-uncle and has been passed on to me.

The lenses: 50mm 1.8, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, 11-22mm f/3.5-3.5 IS, 70-200mm f/2.8 IS.

Shot with my iPhone SE

What I’ve learned along the way is that if you don’t get to know the gear you have, you won’t be able to create the best possible photo. I’m a firm believer in trying out a new camera body before you purchase it. Does it feel comfortable in your hands, are the buttons and menus set in ways that make sense to you? If there is something not quite right here for you personally, look at other options.

Since we are not travelling or getting out a whole lot right now, I have taken to switching out my lenses on my 80D and taking it on my walks around the neighbourhood. I’m doing this to stay familiar with the camera body and the lenses, how they work best, what sort of thing each lens is best for. My Canon 50D is mostly retired now. It has some sensor issues, so I keep it as a back-up. The film camera is something that I use the least. I am still working on when I would like to use it and the ways in which it works best.

Just for fun, here is my gear shot in the app Hipstamatic:

The Kit, Hipstamatic version

Added to Lens Artists, My Photography Journey.

What I Am Working On: Creating A Look

Photographers often are particularly opinionated about the camera brand they use. When my Canon 50D started to go, I was in the market to replace it and was looking at the Canon 80D and a comparable Fuji model. My ultimate choice was the 80D because it felt familiar and also because my lenses fit that body.

I’m happy with my 80D. One of the things l like most about it over the 50D is that it weighs less. I still think about the Fuji though and specifically one of the selling points, their film simulation modes. An overview of what film simulations are is here, but basically, you to take a photo and it gets processed in-camera to a specific film style. I really like the looks Fuji have created.

So what’s a gal with a Canon to do? Well, I did two things. One was to find some Luminar Looks that I could add to my Luminar editing software that would allow me to create the look I wanted in the post-processing phase. I wrote about it a bit in this post from last week, but also I should add that I found those looks here.

But then there was a second thing I created, and that was my own custom shooting modes that I programmed into my Canon. I began by experimenting with what Canon calls picture styles. Those are basically just different combinations of settings that will give you different looks. I found a stash of ready-made ones here. From those I picked two that were close to the two Fuji styles I was interested in imitating, Classic Chome and ACROS +Yellow. With those two that were similar, I took a bunch of photos and continued to fiddle with the settings. Once I was happy with my two new modes of shooting I saved each as a custom shooting mode, details of how to do that are here. This process took several hours once you factor in the research and the experimentation.

Then it was time to take my new Fuji inspired settings for a test run in my Canon. On my Classic Chrome setting, I took this shot:

ISO 320 f/9 1/500sec 0.3ev 44mm

And then with a few edits in Luminar:

ISO 320 f/9 1/500sec 0.3ev 44mm

My ACROS +Yellow attempt is this one:

ISO 800 f/5.6 1/640sec 55mm

I’m happy with these results. I do realise that they are not exact replicas of the Fuji Film Simulation modes, but to be honest, even if I had that camera I would probably still fiddle with the settings and come up with something similar but not exactly what the camera was offering. Your comments or questions about my methods or results are welcome below.

Cheers!

Added to Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, Inspiration.

PS-Did you spot the Bald Eagle?

 

What I Am Working On: Negative Space

Today I was working on this file from Lake Manyara National Park:

ISO 800 f/9 70mm 1/3200sec

It was a beautiful and expansive landscape. I created two versions of this file, a color and a black and white. Before I applied specific edits I started with a few general things that applied to both versions. I adjusted the shadows and highlights and the white and blacks. Then I moved on to adding Luminar Looks. I have recently downloaded a few looks that imitate Fuji film looks. For my color edit I used Fuji Classic Chrome:

ISO 800 f/9 70mm 1/3200sec

For the black and white version I used Acros +Y:

ISO 800 f/9 70mm 1/3200sec

I’ve also created my own look that I call “Vintage Touch-Up”, It adds matte, grain, and vignette filters that can then be adjusted. I applied this look to both of files. This is one of those times where I am happy with all the versions, but that might have to do with the fact that I really liked this view.

Cheers!

This post was created in response to the Lens-Artist Photo Challenge, Negative Space.

 

What I am Working On: A New Project

I have a new project in the works:

ISO 160 3.9mm f/1.8 1/60sec

What you see in the photo is the start, part of my thought process. I’m going to give image transfers to wood a try. I took a short class and have ordered the materials I need. My first tries will be small, 4×6 size. They will be in color. The images above were a test run on my home printer in black and white. The next step is to make color copies on a laser printer.

The photo above originally was an IG post:

View this post on Instagram

Beginning. A new photography project underway. #photography #art #hipstamatic

A post shared by Amy Maranto (@marantophotography) on Sep 6, 2020 at 5:24am PDT

I’ll be posting some more about the project as it comes along. I’m hoping to like the technique enough to make some larger versions to put on a wall in our living room. I’m thinking I’ll use photos from our years in England. Figuring out which photos might take a while…

Cheers!

Published in response to the Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, A Labor of Love.